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The Wave
THOUGH HUNTER S . Thompson called many places home, San Francisco
was clearly his spiritual home. It was here, living in an apartment at
318 Parnassus St., that he hosted the Hell's Angels while researching
his book on the famed outlaw cycle club and first came to the attention
of the American public. With the publication of Hell's Angels, he
took his first tentative steps into what would come to be known as
"gonzo journalism" and would yield several excellent works in the
ensuing years. From the 1960s until his death Feb. 20, his work was
peppered with references to his experiences in the Bay Area. Ripping his
motorcycle up and down 101 to La Honda or Los Altos to hang out with
Timothy Leary and Ken Kesey, crawling around North Beach near the sights
frequented by his hero, Jack Kerouac, making runs out to Bass Lake,
tending the hot tubs at Esalen in Big Sur, working as a night manager at
Mitchell Brothers, writing for the San Francisco Examiner
– Thompson was a Bay Area fixture. And a drinker.
One of Thompson's favorite bars was Tosca, just across the street
from City Lights Bookstore and Jack Kerouac Alley, and there is much
lore surrounding his time there. The beats, especially Kerouac, were
heroes of his, and he made it a point to haunt their haunts. He was good
friends with the owner of Tosca and was regularly seen on both sides of
the bar. Another hangout was Zeke's, now a SoMa sports bar close to what
used to be the old Examiner offices on Third Street and directly
across the way from the original home of Rolling Stone, the
magazine that serialized Thompson's seminal Fear and Loathing in Las
Vegas. Years ago I went to Zeke's for a few postwork pops and saw
that an old Thompson bar tab was still taped up behind the bar. Unpaid.
Thompson was also a massive fan of Bay Area sports, continuing to
follow the 49ers and the Raiders even in recent columns for ESPN. His
apartment on Stanyan was a few blocks from Kezar Stadium in the Haight,
and he wrote of riding his cycle down there, watching games in
hailstorms, and drinking beers with Hall of Fame linebacker Dave Wilcox
and other Niners at what was then known as the Stadium Club, a bar right
across from the field. The Stadium Club, by my reckoning, is now the
Kezar Pub, and it was where I went when I heard the news that Thompson
had died.
Thompson drank whiskey and beer, for the most part. He was from
Kentucky, after all, and his tastes ran toward the hillbilly. He liked
blends such as Chivas Regal and Tullamore Dew, but he also had a
penchant for bourbons, including the rough birds of bourbon, Old Crow
and Wild Turkey. Of these, my favorite is Tullamore Dew. It's not that
it's particularly smooth; I just love saying the name "Tullamore Dew."
It puts me in Ireland on a crisp morning looking out over the
dew-covered fields and feeling as if the world were brand-new. But Dew
wasn't on the rack at Kezar the night I visited, and I didn't need
anything comforting and Dew-like. I needed something that would burn
like a swamp on fire.
Thompson once wrote that he had a ritual for his whiskey pour. It
required much ice. Basically, he would fill a glass with ice (the
glasses became taller as he aged), and he'd slooowly pour the whiskey
over the ice. Once it was poured, he capped his hand over the top of the
glass to form a seal, turned it over gently (not shaking it
cocktail-style, just running the whiskey over the ice to chill and
lightly dilute it), and turned it back upright, ready to drink. It takes
a bit of practice to avoid dousing oneself in booze but otherwise works
nicely. I employed the method when I asked the Kezar bartender for a
glass of Wild Turkey, 101 proof on the rocks. Man, it burns. It's grim
stuff, but I was in a foul mood. It was raining like hell outside, and
one of my heroes had just shot himself.
I'm not much for heroes, and I don't respond well to mentors, but I
can say that Hunter S. Thompson was one of my personal heroes. It seems
trite, in one sense, that a booze writer would name Thompson as a hero,
but my love of the man and his work has little or nothing to do with his
conspicuous consumption of virtually whatever he could get his hands on.
In fact, my major problem is that his antics may overshadow his real
legacy, if the standard of his obituaries is any measure. What one
gleans from his work, between the binges, is that he was a deeply
sensitive character constantly and very consciously creating his own
myth. He was an acerbic, brilliant satirist and one of the keenest
political and social observers of his time. The fact that he seemed to
be perpetually under the influence of some intoxicant was an integral
part of his work. It made him the Other, an outlaw. Regrettably it
allowed his critics to dismiss him as some drug-addled maniac, yet it
also allowed him to be placed in the role of the archetypal
truth-telling jester, the shaman who must leave temporal reality to
report on it from beyond. As my brother put it, "I've distilled my
feelings about him down to this: he showed me that you didn't need to
take things seriously to be taken seriously, and vice versa."
Hidden in the inspired lunacy of Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas
is one of the most eloquent remembrances put on paper in the past
century. It is Thompson's heartfelt eulogy to the San Francisco of the
'60s:
There was a fantastic universal sense that whatever we were doing was
right, that we were winning.... And that, I think, was the handle – that
sense of inevitable victory over the forces of Old and Evil. Not in any
mean or military sense; we didn't need that. Our energy would simply
prevail. There was no point in fighting on our side or theirs. We had
all the momentum; we were riding the crest of a high and beautiful
wave....
I will always remember him at the crest of that wave: young, giddy
with optimism, and engineering some brilliant subversion into which we,
weakened by a world that often seems nothing but Old and Evil, can
escape for a little while to gather our strength and a enjoy a glass of
Dew.
E-mail Matt Markovich at
mmarkovich@hotmail.com.
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